A little time off to consider my holiday and all the other nuggets of news that have ripened while I was away morphed into a very lazy weekend. I forgot the value of laying on the couch for a whole saturday and I thank the heavens for the rain…it really adds to the cozy atmosphere. It would appear as though Autumn has nestled into the Inn Valley so it is extra lucky that I squeezed in a summer holiday in the Balkans before the first snow. So I haven’t quite finished my re-cap of the trip since I’ve been busy with the lazy and all but I’m gonna try my best to offer up a little taste.
Grace arrived and with one night in Innsbruck we took in the night to catch up a little and conjure up an itinerary for the next day. It wasn’t easy for me to roll with no plan but not knowing what she had in mind, I figured I needed to stay flexible. As it turned out, she didn’t really have anything specific in mind either (aside from a definite stop in Venice) so there were lots of possibilities. 4-5 hours in any direction from my apartment offers up some pretty spectacular options. We decided to head south east on the first leg and landed in Ljubljana, Slovenia.
Before we reached our destination for the night we decided to have a pit stop in the Slovenian town of Bled. This little place is nestled in the Julian Alps near Austria’s border and, though pretty sleepy, it was a lovely pit stop. A beautiful green lake, church on an island and castle clinging to a craggy cliff overhead make this town popular with the tourists and we decided to get an ice cream and partake. I hadn’t quite gotten into the swing of things with the picture-taking so there are only a couple shots, but if you’re inclined you can check them out here.

After Bled we had another 45 minutes to roll before arriving at our first stop, Ljubljana. I know this doesn’t make the list of most people’s “must see” Europe itinerary but it really surprised us both. It took about 4 hours to get there by way of Salzburg and Bled, and we found the hostel with a few hours to kill before sundown. The thing that was most spectacular about Ljubljana to me is the EXTENSIVE cafe culture. I don’t think I’m exaggerating when I say that there were enough outdoor tables to host the entire population of Slovenia. Seriously, sitting at a cafe seems to be the city’s past time. I had no expectation of the capital at all and, as a result, was surprised at how lovely it was. The approach to the old town felt a little Jersey-like so, Im sure, you can imagine our surprise when we found our way to the sweet and charming old center. After a walk up to the castle, a cruise around town and an epicly terrible first meal we were officially on vacation…It takes a while to sync with another persons rhythm and schedule and this was a good first day. The street art in Ljubljana was really something else but, I’m afraid, I did it no justice with the 5D and will have to return to shoot it properly. Here are a couple shots from our night and day there, but feel free to click here to see the whole album.



We both had the serious need for some salt water and, though we both realized there was more to see in Ljubljana, we decided to head further south to the Istrian Peninsula of Croatia to find a beach and some fresh sea food. We opted for a little town called Rovjin just north of Pula and were there in about 2 1/2 hours time. The drive along Slovenia’s coast was lovely and the landscape of that part of Croatia is amazing. It’s called the “new Tuscany” and it’s clear why. Vineyards, olives and cypress tress abound.
We opted for a private room in a house over a hotel and LOVED the rate of 35 euros per night. It felt like a throwback to the 70’s though, sadly, we didn’t find the remote control for the AC until our second night in the place.

After dropping off our stuff we immeadiately tried to find the beach, harder than you would think, and both floated out into the Adriatic for the sunset. The coastline here is all rocks and crags but the water was a perfect, clear blue and the right mix of cool enough to refresh but warm enough to be inviting. I’m pretty sure we were the only tourists on this particular stretch.

Our new friend Lidja who booked our room also suggested a special spot for dinner. The place was called Valrosa and we managed to find it in time for our 8:00 reservation. When we follwed the sign and pulled the car down the dirt driveway, a dog was the first to greet us. It felt like we were in the wrong place but shortly after a man named Viktor came to shake our hands and assure us he was expecting us. Valrosa was one of many tiny vineyards dotting the countryside around Rovjin and the smell of the wood burning fire made me think that we were in for a treat. I feel like I could write a novel about this dinner and I will spare you the middle 10 chapters and bring you straight to the point. A Tuscan garden, a 4 course meal consisting of fish that were certainly swimming hours before they landed on our plate, an army of kittens waiting for a scrap and father and daughter who went out of their way to make us feel at home. The risotto with artichoke and fresh prawns was my favorite course but it was all unbelievable. I will definitely find my way back to that place again…

The homemade wine, olive oil, vinegar, food and atomsphere will go down in history as one of the best meals I have ever had the privilege to enjoy…I’m pretty sure Grace felt the same way.
The next morning we both woke up before the sun because of the bugs and heat so, we took that as a sign to see the sun rise over Rovijn. Having the old town to ourselves for the morning was wonderful….I have seen quite a few old european cities by now and this one stuck out as being particularly special. Something about how the salt air aged the cobblestones really moved me.



After some coffee and the best croissant I’ve had in a while (filled with apricot marmalade and still hot from the oven) we decided to find a boat that would take us out to the islands for the day for some more beaching. We settled on a converted sloop called Mare mainly because the Captain seemed like an entertainer. After breakfast we walked the entire radius of Rovjin and found a market. Enter my favorite ‘food porn’ of the holiday


Around 11:15 Captain Gordone (make sure to prounce the E!) brought us out to sea. The water shifted between emerald blue and deep, deep cobalt and was so clear it was amazing. His soundtrack for the ride had to have been called something like “The Worst Cover Songs of the 70’s” and his bongo accompaniement on the steering column added to the insanity. He was ridiculous and hilarious and was definitely his biggest fan on the boat.

We disembarked at Red Island and beached it for the entire day. Aside from a little sunburn it was a perfect day in the sun. Lots of sleep and mellow and swimming and relaxation. By the time the captain came to pick us up the sun was starting to set and we opted to end the day where we began it…at the church on top of Rovjin for an epic sunset.


After some dinner at a wonder bar called Limbo we cruised around town a little more and then wheeled our way back to the Barbarella suite and prepare to roll on to Venice the next morning. Sleep came better thanks to my trusty German language skills and the aquisition of the remote for the AC. All in all, Rovjin was a perfect holiday.
The drive back through Slovenia and Trieste was pretty fast and we pulled into the Tronchetto in Venice around noon. We saw the whole tip of the Adriatic that morning…not something that happens everyday, you know. Our hotel was near the old Jewish ghetto and we were psyched to see that it had AC. Turns out that it was unseasonably hot everywhere we went. I have already talked a lot about Venice here on 2bean so Im gonna cut to the chase with the new stuff…
Regatta Storica closed the Grand Canal for one afternoon we were there and it was a treat to see real Venetians enjoying their city.


Aside from this I headed out to the Cimitario and Murano for some glass and some shade and some new photo ops… Here are some of my new favorite venice shots, but feel free to check them all out right here. And if that isn’t enough for you, check the new street art shots here.





There are A LOT more photos of this beautiful city and some street art shots, too. Go ahead, check them out.


That shot above is called “Mondrian Monster” and, as of this moment, it is my favorite shot of the trip. There was more delicious food, quality time and sights to behold and after 2 nights it was time to roll our out of there. I decided to make our way home via Cortina so Grace and I could both experience the Dolomites…Im gonna let the pictures do the talking…





Feel free to check out the rest of beautiful Cortina right here.
This re-cap was way short on the philosophy and the whole ‘inward journey’ part of this trip but believe me when I tell you there was one. Every road trip, or any trip for that matter, has an inward and outward portion and this was ripe with both. A great time to reflect on the year and to connect with a dear friend and to relax a little.