Expect the Unexpected: Part II – Trans-Mongolian Railway

July 3, 2009 · Leave a Comment

Train travel has always awoken something romantic in me.  Watching the world slide by, feeling time slow down, falling asleep to the rhythmic rocking, allowing your soul to arrive at your destination at the same time as your body…  I think I’ve waxed poetic here before about riding the rails but I’m going to again.  The Trans-Siberian Railroad is a big one.  Trans-Mongolian, in my case, but believe me when I tell you that I have every intention of finishing that ride some day.  9 days stomping around Beijing was perfect but, by the time it was over, I was ready to relax in my cabin and just be still.  I think that’s part of my love of trains…you can be perfectly still and still be moving.

Somewhere in Inner Mongolia - Trans-Siberian Railroad

Somewhere in Inner Mongolia - Trans-Siberian Railroad

Everything I read about this train underlined the necessity to expect the unexpected.  Each recount and guidebook told a variation of a similar and yet totally different story.  From the first moment we boarded it was confusing as all hell.  Brilliant and comfortable and surreal and exciting and totally confusing.  The “hostesses,” more Jeckyl and Hyde than anything else, speak neither Chinese nor English so our guide wasn’t able to explain why, upon boarding, they take your ticket and disappear.  This would not be the last time they would take something and disappear…

Fast Track in the Slow Lane - TSR

Fast Track in the Slow Lane - TSR

I feel like I could write a short novel on this train ride but I will refrain…at least for now anyways.  35 hours heading out of Beijing, through Inner Mongolia and the Gobi Desert is a trip.  Waking up to a petal pink sky and horses running alongside the wind is so wild and beautiful that its hard to digest.  Moments like this were balanced by hectic and confusing border crossings, seldom opportunities to find snacks to forage and some very funny commentary from the couple in the cabin next door.

Border - China & Mongolia

Border - China & Mongolia

I still giggle when I think back to the Mongolian border guards searching cabins and checking passports in the middle of the night and our Turkish friend grumbling, “This is horrible!”  At that moment, it kind of was but it was far funnier than bad.  Quite an adventure.

1st Taste of the Gobi

1st Taste of the Gobi

The bad part of not having recapped this while it was happening is that now you are getting jipped.  I’m struggling a little with writing this all down and, in the process, delaying updates on the new news…perhaps if I ask nicely enough I cankindly request 36 hours in tomorrows day instead of just 24.  Stay tuned for a stream of consciousness rememberance of Mongolia…

Buddah is my copilot

Buddah is my copilot

If you’d like to see some more photos from the train, click here.

Categories: 21stCenturySisyphus · photography · travelogue

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